How to install VCM 2 Ford IDS 109 software?

How to install Ford IDS 109:
1- Install the ids 86 before changing the date to 1 07 2015

(hold the date 1/7/2015 , until you finish step 5

every time you restart your computer, check the date, if it is  on 1/7/2015)

2- install patch ( choice option 2 )

3- Make a backup of your windows system (I recommend, this is optional)

4- Open the program with the interface connected ,,( choose NON DEALER,when open program for first time ) , keep vcm turn on,on the computer.

5 – create a restore point,,,then turn off vcm of the computer

6 – Okay, now install the new version, v109.01, before installing, changing the date of your computer, to the current day

7- After installing, go back to the restore point, which you created in step 5, activate this restore point, and then open the program

8- Finally, install FordExtendProgram  (click right mouse button click on, run as administrator)

Done, will work in the new version

Ps. here’s solution of “VCM II-IDS software version mismatch (update IDS) ”

Click green Tick box to update firmware.

If it does nothing, <=Perform VCMii reset . Unplug USB cable from end VCM take off black rubber end boot plug back in USB restart IDS hold BUTTON middle end VCM plug in to PC all lights flash and and when VCM beeps release button IDS will prompt VCM update to IDS level press Tick

Note that Ford IDS V109 can be download for free from http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2018/04/11/mazda-ids-109-download-free-on-mega/ But it’s not tested by professionals. If you want to have IDS with security and relief, you’re advised to spend some dollars with it: http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/ford-vcm-ids-v108.01-software.htmltested 100%, confirmed to work perfect with VCM 2 clone

Src:http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2018/05/31/how-to-install-ford-ids-109-for-vcm-2-clone/

VCMII clone SP177-2 PCB Display

2018 new VCMII clone SP177-2 is released at obdexpress.co.uk, to make up for the lack of VCMII SP177-C1/SP177-C best quality.

This is VCMII clone SP177-2 PCB.

Source: http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/vcmii-vcm2-ford-diagnostic.html

Ford VCM2 clone works with Suzuki DST2 software!

This is how I made Ford VCMII clone  work with the Suzuki sdt2 software.

I used the best from vcmii clone china….yep..it’s SP177-C1.
I used a dell latitude d630 with clean install windows 7 32 bit professional.
I installed the Ford V.86.
I opened the Bosch VCI manager and updated the VCM II to work with Ford v86.
I installed Suzuki sdt2 software, and when the install asked me to connect the VCMII i connected the Ford VCM II and continued with the install.
Once it finished I opened the BOSCH folder, then VTX-VCI sub folder, and copied the entire contents of the VCI Software (Ford-VCM-II) to VCI Software (6516-Suzuki). Replace all files !!!
the Suzuki software will see the VCMII as the OEM VCM even that the VCI manager say its a Ford VCMII.
The regedit will look into the folder VCI Software (6516-Suzuki) for all the drivers, and it will load the Ford drivers to make it work.
DONE.
Remember to open VCI manager and connect the VCM before you go into the Suzuki or Ford software.
I connected a 2015 car non USA model and worked perfectly.
I also connected other USA model cars and worked OK.

I tried on Suzuki swift 2001 g10a, Suzuki wagon R 1.3 2007′,and Suzuki swift diesel 1.3 2011,ALL WORKED FINE!

I mean it’s not able to do programming VIN or ecu programming if data base is NOT had it….but diagnose is ok……..

I hope this helps !!

Btw, you can change Ford VCM2 Device type to SDT2 VCI , Then you have a SDT2 VCI.
So if dongle not work while it is a Ford vcm2, maybe it would work after you changed the VCM2 Device type to SDT2 VCI.

Cheers..

Note: VCM2 clone can work with a lot of software. Look here: http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2018/04/25/ford-vcm-ii-a-lot-of-software-can-work-with/

http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/service/ford-vcmii-clone-works-with-suzuki-dst2-software-28702.html

Buy VCMII SP177 instead, if SP177-C1/SP177-C isn’t available

FYI, VCM2 HQ clone SP177-C1/SP177-C is hot. So you might have no luck with them. But you won’t regret to have VCM2 SP177 instead.

If you worry about the quality, the board talks.

Look here..Ford VCM2 SP177 PCB china clone

Source: http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/best-quality-ford-vcm-ii-oem-diagnostic-tool-ids-wireless.html

VCM2 PCB Colours- Which best?

I just wanted to comment on the issue of the PCB plating as I am qualified (electronics and computing).

The boards are made of copper laminated to fiberglass. When these boards are made – BEFORE installing the electronic components – they normally plate the copper with tin or a cadmium alloy to prevent corrosion of the copper.

The colours you see are a consequence of the plating process.
– Tin is a silver colour and has been incorrectly described early in this thread as Aluminium which is never used for a PCB plating. Tin is the normal plating used as the solder is an alloy of >90% tin. The old 60% lead and 40% tin solder is no longer used as the lead is a poison that leaches into the ground when electronics are disposed of.

– Gold colour is the cadmium alloy plating and is usually selectively applied where exposure to moisture occurs such as connector contacts and test points. I rarely see it soley used on the whole PCB as a plating but it can be cheaper to plate the whole board rather than selectively at times.

– The real Copper colour of a red gold is an unplated board – VERY BAD. I would avoid such a unit at all costs because if they are such cheapskates and cost cutters not to have the PCB tin plated then they will have cut costs elsewhere.

There was a reply that tried to correct this matter but I hope this makes things a lot easier to understand.

BTW, There are many other issues that affect the quality of performance of any electronics such as capacitor quality.

If the board is showing all the copper tracks then that is a problem in itself which leads to oxidisation in air, most boards have a coating (conformal) to prevent this, finding a pcb manufacturer who plates every single track is impossible, coating the pcb with a protective layer of conformal prevents oxidisation in air and compared to the cost of tin varnish is minimal and the process much cheaper, tin needs high temperature to flow while varnish can be sprayed on at room temperature.

This is good info to know…

But actually…. I still think the problem we all face when we try to do certain functions is due to poor quality components (or missing components)

My vcm2 sp177-c1 works perfectly on ALL new generation ford / Mazda but have difficulty to achieve some functionality on old ford based ECU (also on Mazda equipped with ford ECU).

I’m pretty sure that the Chinese “engineers” who developed those clones didn’t copy the OEM board 100% . They must have took some shortcuts to save $$.

Big thanks to dstirrup and MrPhil who share good info with us

Src:

http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2018/05/01/which-pcb-colour-is-best-for-vcm-ii-clone/

My Opinions of VCM II Genuine and Good Clone

I’m pretty sure that the Chinese “engineers” who developed those clones didn’t copy the OEM board 100% . They must have took some shortcuts to save $$.

I have been looking at a couple of articles extolling the virtues of buying genuine VCM. Well they were written a few years ago and I am sure they picked the most rubbish clones then available. But the good thing is they have high res photo’s of the original Vectronix boards. Now my clone when compared has nothing missing. There is no sign of cost cutting, all parts are there. Mine is not “A” grade but likely a B grade as they did opt for the wired banana power jack rather than a PCB version which is such a minor technical issue and not worthy of people’s junk judgement.

As noted in my original post about “Gold”, the real VCM1 board has the cadmium plating at exposed test points but also has a diecast aluminium housing so I would opinion that the VCM1 was constructed to a very high standard. The original VCM2 does not seem to have the same build quality from the photos found as the VCM1. Gone is the diecast housing replaced by impact plastic as has the industrial multipin connector. Now to my opinion the new case is an improvement as shock absorption is better than a metal box. Whilst a metal box will survive a crush incident it does nothing to lesson a shock wave destroying reliability of electronic parts – of which many have ceramic as an integral part of their construction. This loss of a quality connector in favour of a sub D style connector on the VCM2 is certainly no improvement for reliability in my opinion either.

I have never seen any pictures of a VCM2 clone that has bare copper traces. The way these things are made you have to have a solder resist, usually the defacto green, so that the surface mount components can be soldered. As to the suggestion of a conformal coating being applied, I cannot see such a coating in the pictures I found of a genuine VCM2. I do agree as an engineer it should be done given the nature of a workshop environment – but there is a whole lot of things that need to be designed as part of the manufacturing process for that method before you just spray a hermatic seal on which significantly increases cost.

So there are good and bad offerings which this thread is about, where to get the good today, as the retailers chop and change their suppliers is always a mystery. Price is seldom an indication of the quality too  – I too would like to know where we can buy an excellent quality clone that is fully tested with v81 through to v104 firmware, not blacklisted and reliable. I do believe they exist and maybe the SP177-C series are good A grades – I hope so as I may order one just to test when I have some spare money…

BTW, I have just ordered a genuine VXDIAG VCX Nano Wifi to play with direct from the manufacturer off obdexpress.co.uk. I like their approach of having a generic high speed programmable interface box that is configured for the particular function i.e. IDS or GM or ODIS etc Then they deal with compatibility in the PC driver software which is written by Fly who appear to have some respect at doing this type of work. Many have commented that they have had zero problems writing to the modules using the VCX whilst others say they are crap. Only one way to tell is to get a real VCX and not a clone and see how it goes.

Src:

http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2018/04/30/feedback-vcm-ii-genuine-and-good-clone/